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Is there still a market for variety retail?

This article appears on page 8 of the May - June edition of DSB (Department Store Buyer). Online version here.

I think there IS a place in today’s economy and society for a variety store, but not a Woolworths clone. All too often success or failure is decided, not by what you do, but how you do it. I am reminded of how true this sentiment is by the various fashion retailers operating in the value sector. New Look and Primark have been performing well (excepting perhaps New Look’s on-off-at time of writing, back on again IPO) and both have released encouraging numbers. The opposite is true for MK One and Ethel Austin for whom the future looks very shaky indeed.

Woolworths did not collapse because they operated in the variety sector. There was a whole plethora of problems affecting the business. Covering every one of these issues would require far more column space than I have here today! Just a very few of these problems; availability and range issues in-store plus intense competition and cashflow nightmares with the Woolworths owned Entertainment UK. Add to that mix failed refinancing attempts plus the withdrawal of credit insurance and life at Woolies became truly desperate. The Telegraph described Woolworths as “an expensive and stagnating retail business tied bizarrely to a successful but cash-hungry DVD wholesaler.” Woolies will surely live on via case studies and lectures in universities and business schools around Britain but I think it is safe to say that it wasn’t operating in the variety sector that was really their problem…it was the way the business was run.

Having said all that Woolworths did have a lot of competitors in many of its product areas and since their collapse these competitors, including Asda, Tesco, Argos, Wilko’s and pound stores have all scrambled to snatch a share of Woolies ‘widows’. A few “son of Woolies including WeeW, Wellworths and Alworths have also sprung up. Legal battles aside (Shop Direct owns the Woolworths brand name), they seem to be trading well. Alworths is run by former Woolworths director Andy Latham and currently has four stores with plans for 22 in the next few months. Andy believes Alworths will breakeven in their first year so we will have to wait with baited breath to see if that eventuates.

Dave Dodd, co-founder of Poundland announced via Retail Week (March 12) that he would be launching Hub, a mid-market chain aiming to build into a 200-store chain. Apparently he plans to “shake up the variety sector” which has “lost its way”. The first Hub store should open in the next couple of months and will aim to “create a similar emotional experience to shopping in TK Maxx. Hub will sell confectionary, stationary, toys, hardware, electrical homewares and greeting cards. I don’t doubt that Dave has the commercial nouse required but can he make the shift from Poundland to mid-market?

Whatever the rest of us might think, there are certainly quite a few people out there who believe there is money to be made in the variety sector. My prediction is that they won’t all last the next two years and there will be a significant amount of refining and adjusting as each retailer finds their place.

Now throwing caution to the wind – could there be a whole new take on variety around the corner? Stuart Rose, Executive chairman M&S recently said “We might have to look at Boots, M&S and B&Q teaming up to present an offer under the same roof” That would certainly be interesting. Or my secret wish? A town centre/market town format of John Lewis (where a full size store does not already exist). Operating from a similar sized unit as Woolworths and offering quality small goods such as homewares (nothing that would need a car or delivery) in the convenience of a town centre location.

I guess we’ll just have to wait and see. What do you think?

Becki Rowe - The Retail Marketing Maven

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The inevitable …

Meh. That is the best way to describe how I felt yesterday.

It started off well - I wore my bright orange silk blouse. The one which has froth and frillage in a bib shape down the front. It looks like a whole flock of Japanese folding fans have collided on my chest. It is the sort of top that makes you smile and sing little ditties about sunshine and lollipops whenever you wear it.  I love it.

Then two very, very small things happened and left me feeling a little, well, meh. On the surface these look like nice little exchanges with complete strangers, but look deeper and I think they are signs of the inevitable; I am getting old.

The first exchange happened on the train, a lovely lady commented on said favourite blouse, and asked me where it was from. So what’s the problem?

The lovely lady is a twinset and pearls wearing 80 year old, that’s the problem. However, she is impeccably turned out and says “Oh yes, I know them” when I tell her it is from Ted Baker (she says it in the manner of a person vaguely recalling something). Weighing all the factors up I figure this is neither positive nor negative and continue on my way.

The second exchange takes place in one of my spiritual homes - Pret a Manger. It is predictably packed to bursting  and seeing a man (I am rubbish at guessing ages but circa 20 years old) looking for somewhere to sit I offer the spare seat at my table. He says “Oh no thank you Ma’am”  before explaining that he is part of a big group.

Nice and polite so what’s the biggy? Well, I just felt slightly uneasy for a while afterwards. On reflection I think it was the formal nature of his answer and body language. He was reminiscent of a high school student speaking to their head mistress when they’re are walking the fine line between detention and getting away with it. Or when they are meeting their girlfriends scary dad for the first time.

I felt older than him, a L.O.T older. That is when I realised that the inevitable was happening, I am getting old.

When I got home I critiqued my appearance and identified the offending garment responsible (clearly it is not ME). It is a size too big and lacks shape, killing the whole look. It will now be ceremoniously burnt (for the record it is not my lovely blouse nor my Reiss mac with the fantail back).

Must go, I’m off to buy some anti-ageing cream….

Becki Rowe

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Retail in Bath: The good, the bad and the truly dysfunctional.

Well that was what this blog was supposed to be…..

Mr RMM had a bread-making course at the wonderful Bertinet Kitchen in Bath so it was time for a long weekend away. Now when a Retail Marketing Maven finds herself idle in a city what else is she to do but shop?

I set out on Saturday morning expecting the same old retail mix you see in every town and planning to critique the cities retail stores. Regular readers will know that I am a fussy, opinionated cow *shuffles feet at the size of  the understatement*. Therefore I was expecting to find an over supply of shops that I felt where either bad or truly dysfunctional.

To my delight, the retail offering in Bath is really rather good. You will find pretty much every familiar high street name you could desire and and excellent mix of independent boutiques and artisan suppliers. I could easily have stuck to my original topic -  but I felt that would be churlish given my overwhelming delight at the days shopping.

So here are some of my favourite finds.

instant-vintage-21 instant-vintage3

Instant Vintage is the brainchild of Poppy Harman and Husband Andy, evolving from stalls at Portobello and Spitalfield Markets. Merchandise is centred around vintage inspired fashion and homewares. I loved the attention to detail, the quality of the execution and their tightly defined niche. My normal retail pet hates, things like dirty shops/fitting rooms , OTT signage and off-brand digressions were totally absent - how lovely.

grasse susannah

Grasse was launched in July 2009 by Joanne Davies and is inspired by Grasse, in Southern France. The collection of home and garden products varies on a monthly basis around a solid core of exclusive products. I loved the strong brand identity and, as with Instant Vintage, the quality of the execution and attention to detail.

Sussannah is a vintage wonderland, wavering on the knife edge between being truly dysfunctional and utterly endearing .

It breaks all the basic rules of good retailing, for example, the volume of merchandise makes it nearly impossible to move. Even worse, for the entirety of my visit there was not a single member of staff  in the store. I found lovely things I wanted to buy, but there was no one to take them out of the window and the cash out of my wallet. Despite these obvious flaws, or perhaps in part because of them, I love it anyway.

the-fine-cheese-co the-fine-cheese-co-2

The Fine Cheese Co is a maturer, wholesaler, retailer and exporter of artisan British cheeses, most of which are unpasteurised and all of which are traditionally made. Food lovers should embark on a pilgrimage - you will not be disappointed!

The attached cafe is less successful - much more shabby than chic and the staff were doing it no favours on my visit. The food, is of course, wonderful.

In addition to visiting the above, don’t leave Bath without;

A men’s tweed jacket circa 1920’s or ‘old lady’ Ostrich leather bag from Vintage to Vogue; THE place to go for nearly new designer, vintage and one off quirky pieces.

A visit to George Bayntun, fine bindings and rare books.  More a museum than a store, with a wonderful collection of second hand and antiquarian books. Enthusiasts could easily spend all day here and part with upwards of £5,500 for just one book.

Shopping at every conceivable high street multiple in the new Southgate shopping development.

Staying at The Townhouse; located on the edge of The Circus in the heart of Georgian Bath and just a hop, skip and jump from the centre of Bath. An excellent boutique B&B.

Never have I had such a wonderful day perusing the shops,

Becki Rowe

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What do your retail displays have in common with my nail polish?

A ridiculous quantity of obsolete and unusable, window and in-store displays are accumulated in stock rooms around the nation, filling premium space with unnecessary clutter.

It’s just like me with nail polish - I used to work for a cosmetics company and ever since that I time I have been a big purchaser. I have always felt bad about throwing away makeup, even if I no longer used it for whatever reason.

It is one of the things in life I know to be true. In my time I have been through hundreds of stores, whether viewing possible shop sites to lease, or visiting clients and employers stores. It is incredibly rare that I come across a back office or stockroom that is efficiently run, without a mountain of old window displays or in-store props dating back years. Other than the obviously fire danger or health and safety risk you are paying rent for this dead space.

I LOVE a good clear out, I am utterly ruthless, and I find it very cathartic. Last night it was the turn of my shoe boxes of nail polish. Yep, that is plural…

What do your retail displays have in common with my nailpolish?

Hmmm, which will stay and which will go?

Here are some of the reasons I have been holding on to different nail polishes – they are remarkably similar to reasons I have been given over the years for keeping obsolete props and other display items.

1. I don’t use it any longer but It was expensive when I got it…

I have lost count of the shop staff who tell me they are keeping that larger-than-adult-sized display from 3 years ago because they were told it was expensive at the time. Said display is usually branded for the launch of a product that now no longer exists. I say “time to let it go”. Ancillary space must earn its keep, filling it with junk is creating an opportunity cost. The longer it is kept, the more expensive that display is getting!

2. It’s old and unusable but sooooo pretty…

Probably the most common reason I am given is that store staff love the photography/colour/material etc. Again, because the product feature is from several seasons ago or the colour is no longer on brand these cannot, and will not, be used again. I’ve seen old product/lifestyle images given a second life in ancillary areas. Places like staff rooms and backs of doors which cannot be racked or otherwise used to aid operations. Pretty backdrops can be put to good use on walls with staff notices pinned to them. The rest must make their way to display heaven…

3. Throwing stuff away is wastful and bad for the environment

I can’t argue with that, but stop kidding yourself - simply stacking it up is only delaying the problem! Time to get proactive. Can more recyclable/recycled products be used? Can instructions for disposal be added to the installation pack? As facilities vary across the country can store managers be made responsible for contacting their local council to explore options? And if these are not feasible then don’t delay the inevitable. Throw it out now and keep your space free and usable. Storing it up just means it will go in the shop fitters skip when your company moves out.

Take a lesson from me and my nail polish. Stop procrastinating and clear that clutter, you’ll enjoy improved efficiency for your efforts!

Let me know what you think by posting a comment below.

Becki Rowe

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Love and Liberty; the tale of my recent love affair

liberty_of_london

I would like to release a statement: I have just had a full blown love affair with Liberty of London.

At first glance that probably sounds about as exciting as yet another ‘Katie Price reveals all’ cover on Hello magazine. Let me explain why this is truly shocking news.

I have spent 12 years of my life (so far) criticising retail stores and retail marketing for a living. In a jargon free nutshell, my job is pretty much about seeking out ‘barriers’ and removing them. It might be an awareness barrier (not enough people know about the brand) or a navigation barrier (i.e. people can’t find the product they are looking for). I am always on the look out for improvements that could raise brand awareness, improve the customer experience and lift sales.

Consequently I find it hard to shop for ‘fun’. Typically whenever I attempt to, I very quickly end up muttering and grumbling about things like poor navigation signage or POS, lacklustre customer service or disjointed marketing efforts (i.e. marketing that drives footfall to stores around a specific product but when you get there you can’t find it) to name but a few of my common gripes.

Imagine my surprise when, for nearly an hour, I completely forgot to critique every minute aspect. This wasn’t my first ever visit to Liberty’s, I just haven’t been for a couple of years - a client meeting at Cafe Liberty is to blame.

So how did I slip into this dalliance?

- All of my senses were catered for; from the wonderful wafting scent of fresh spring flowers at the front door, the creak of old wood stairs, the visual feast of gorgeous gems and the wonderfully tactile silk scarves and leathers.

- I loved the small dark entrance - it had a very ‘lion, witch and the wardrobe’ feel about it of entering another world. I know this isn’t right for every brand - so many stores do go for the open, bright entrance and perhaps that is why this had such a profound affect on me.

- There were genuinely unique product that you don’t find in every department store and in most cases these were merchandised in a way that felt entirely appropriate for Liberty’s.

-The shop floor was devoid of the typical signage clutter that would normally get my hackles up, rather emphasis was on the creation of desire and then product was simply allowed to sell itself.

- There was real conviction and simplicity in displays which I always love to see. If a brand displays confidence in itself, customers feel confident.

Only a few days later I read reports that Liberty’s EBITDA was in positive territory for the first time in a decade in the year to December 31, excellent news! I look forward to seeing more good news from them in future years. You can read more about Liberty of London’s improved performance in Retail Week.

guineapig

So what little trifles made their way into a shopping bag?

A whole set of gorgeous nostalgic animal egg cups, some stationary and a few books. Oh, and I am mulling over a few other things I saw…..

Here is the Guinea Pig egg cup posing on my dining table.

Have you lost yourself in a retail experience recently? What made it so great?

Post a comment below to tell me all about it.

Becki

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Should department stores consider changing how they allocate floor space?

dsb_marapr_cover

The March-April edition of Department Store Buyer is out now and has my first contribution to Question time. This feature sees three retail industry professionals provide compelling insight into the issues surrounding today’s retail.

The question was “In this new decade and new economic period do the traditional formats still work or should department stores consider evolving how they allocate departments and floor space?”

Click on the Question time image below to visit the full online version of the magazine (page 8). Then post a comment below to let me know what you think. FYI page 7 also features the iphone app called Trendtracker that Mr RMM worked on.

dsb_pg8b2 dsb_pg9b

Leave me a  a comment below to let me know what you think.

Until next time,

Becki Rowe

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Carpetright has a long way to go…

This festered away in my mind for a few days until it reached the point where only a blog post would get it off my chest.

On the bottom of the front page of Retail Week (26th February edition) there is the headline “Carpetright sets sights on service and growth”.  Apparently Commercial Director Martin Harris wants to “have the service proposition of Sainsburys” he also commented that, as a business, “We’re pretty good but we can be better”.

When I repeated this to Mr Retail Marketing Maxim he stared at me in stunned disbelief, surely not the Carpetright we knew?

I won’t go into the minutia of our customer service problems with Carpetright but here are some of the highlights;

- Carpetright’s contracted fitters used such force nailing the grippers down that they popped the screws out of the plasterboard ceilings underneath (through 2 layers of floor boards!) and finished skimming and paintwork had to be redone

- I sent a complaint email on the 10th of February via their website and got an automated email with a reference number (#345140 should anyone from Carpetright read this) and this message “In order for us to deal with your enquiry as efficiently as possible we have registered you as a user of the Carpetright website, and you will receive a further email with your log in details and useful information.” I’m not sure how this helps them be more efficient?

I am still waiting for my enquiry to be dealt with efficiently, heck after 19 days I’d settle for ANY response, efficient or otherwise. When I checked the status of my enquiry earlier today it is still listed as ‘new’. Blimey.  On the upside, next time I go to their website to complain I’ll be able to log in and do so from my very own account…

I’m all for setting the bar high but I fear that on this occasion Carpetright might be making grand sweeping statements that they are a long, long way from achieving. Martin might think “This is not revolution; it’s evolution. We don’t want to throw the baby out with the bath water”.

For what it’s worth, I think you ARE asking for revolution…and spouting a whole lot of phrases so here is one of my own …silk purse from a pig’s ear anyone?

What are your thoughts on Carpetright’s chances of pulling this off?

Becki Rowe

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ASDA and ASOS to speak at The Retail Conference 2010

Evening everyone,

Bit of an update on The Retail Conference (held 22nd September 2010, America Square Conference Centre).

Two new and exciting retailers have just been confirmed as speakers. The first is supermarket giant ASDA and the second (hold onto your hats) is award-winning ASOS.

Clare Rayner, Founder and Managing Director of The Retail Conference told Retail Marketing Maxim “We are thrilled to have ASOS on-board, they absolutely lead the market when it comes to blending online shopping convenience with the instant gratification of having your shopping NOW - typically only an option with bricks and mortar carry-out purchases. ASOS have achieved this through their market leading same day delivery proposition. The Retail Conference will have the pleasure of welcoming ASOS to a workshop / case study session where delegates can find out what they do, and, get the opportunity to quiz the team a bit more about how they do it in a interactive panel-style session.”

Over 100 retailers (including the likes of New Look, House of Fraser and Cath Kidston) have already secured their place at The Retail Conference 2010 - to hear from ASOS and many more simply register on line at http://www.retailconference.co.uk/register

Retail Marketing Maxim looks forward to seeing you there!

Becki Rowe

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Retail Marketing Maxim Linkedin Group

Are you on Linkedin?

Did you know about the Retail Marketing Maxim Linkedin Group?

If not, our Linkedin Group is designed to incite and stimulate lively debate and an intense exchange of ideas for those who live and breathe retail and marketing.

You can check out the discussion page to add your thoughts to a member’s question or post your own question. Look at the news page for a selection of the best retail stories out there. If you find an interesting news article please post it here to share with others.

Membership is open to all UK based professionals working in retail and marketing. Take at the full group profile here where you will also find the group guidelines for posting.

Look forward to seeing you there,

Becki

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Women in Retail links with Kids Company for 2010

Hello everyone! After a bit of a break for a long holiday I am now firmly back in the blogging saddle. Yes really.

This morning I have been thinking about the Women in Retail xmas drinks (held at the The Savile Club,  Mayfair in December). The great and the glam of retail were out in aid of Kids Company, bringing a gift which would be given around 1800 children and young people with nowhere else to go on Christmas day.

If you haven’t hear of Kids Company here is a little more about them; Kids Company was founded by Camila Batmanghelidjh in 1996. They aim to provide practical, emotional and educational support to vulnerable inner-city children and young people. Many of the 14,000 children reached by Kids Company’s services have experienced severe and multiple trauma. Often these are ‘lone children’ living in chronic deprivation, with little or no support and face the daily anxieties of caring for their family as the role of parent and child is reversed.

The great news is that Women in Retail  will be continuing their relationship with Kidsco throughout 2010!

Bye for now,

Becki

P.S Women In Retail is a membership organisation dedicated to senior women in the retail sector. They are committed to enabling members to realise their personal and professional potential through networking and individual development. Find out more here; womeninretail.com

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